Inventory of Parts

People have asked whether parts were missing from the kit. The Caterham kit is very well organized, even with hundreds of parts. Afterall, Caterham has been making these vehicles for decades! The Assembly Guide has photos of the larger parts. Small parts are in marked clear plastic bags, many with paper inserts that show the fittings.

So far, the only significant missing parts were the Watts Links Bellcranks, and one seat headrest, and both the dealer and the manufacturer responded quickly. Fortunately, the temporary ommission did not slow down the build because there is so much else to do. (The bellcranks are parts of the rear suspension which is explains why the interior has been getting more attention lately.)

In a few cases fittings seemed to be missing, but actually turned up later, or were discovered to be pre-installed. If you plan on building this kit in a couple of weeks, take a full inventory of every bag before you start so you are not delayed.

Tonneau Cover - Rear Snaps

A previous post discussed how the seat back carpet, boot cover and harnesses were installed. Today I fitted six (6) snaps along the boot cover at the top of the seat back that will eventually attach the tonneau cover. The Assembly Guide calls for fitting these snaps to the boot cover only when the 4-point harness option is chosen. This works only if the aluminum strip was removed from the boot cover prior to installation. Since I kept the aluminum strip I was forced to attach the snap bases through the boot cover, aluminum strip, seatback carpet, and into the chassis. I used rivets, but screws probably would have sufficed. If you have the 4-point harness, use care when positioning the outer two snap bases, as the chassis has holes for reel-style seatbelts that can interfere. I fitted these snap bases directly above these hole through the aluminum only. (God save the Queen.)

Teamwork

Most of the Seven can be assembled by the average car nut using a basic set of tools. In several instances it is necessary to enlist a helper to get the job done, such as to hang the differential. For simpler tasks having another person around is more fun and safer. Working together probably leads to fewer mistakes since you can check one another. Fortunately, my friend Peter has always volunteered to assist.

Wing Protectors

Ordering the fibreglass body parts unpainted provides a chance to drill all the necessary holes before painting. Wing Protectors are steel plates that attach to the lower front portion of the rear fenders. They are intended to protect the fenders from debris that may be tossed up by the front wheels. Factory holes are pre-drilled on the protectors but the builder must drill through the fibreglass. Eventually they will be riveted to the wings.

The left side protector shown above still has the white film that protects the steel during assembly. Black plastic piping fits between the edge of the protector and the fibreglass for a tidy appearance. I started by taping the piping to the back of the protector. Next, tape is applied to the surface of the wing so the fibreglass drills cleanly. Finally the protector is taped to the wing and the holes drilled.

Not shown, to finish preparation for paint, holes must also be drilled for tail lights, and a coping saw was used to make notches for the Watts Linkage.

Seat Back Carpet, Boot Cover, and Harnesses

There should be a chapter in the Assembly Guide called Seat Back Carpet, Boot Cover, and Harnesses. First of all, it takes a sober moment to figure out the correct sequence for assembling these. (I actually started to draw a flowchart.)

The boot cover (or trunk cover, as we say) cannot be installed until the seat back carpet is installed because the carpet goes under the boot cover. The boot cover is permanently fixed to the chassis tube behind the seats, and drapes down into the boot when the hood is raised.

Many Seven builders discard the seat back carpet because it can accumulate moisture, it adds a bit of weight...and it covers so much beautiful aluminum! I decided to go ahead and install the carpet because it reduces road noise and protects the aluminum from things stowed behind the seats. Plus the rest of the interior is black. However, I am only using double-sided carpet tape so removal would be simple if I change my mind.

With the carpet in place, the bood cover can be layed in place. The boot cover can be riveted behind the seats as it has an aluminum strip sewn into the leading edge. However, the Assembly Guide says to discard the aluminum strip if you have the 4-point harness option--which I do. Rather than cutting out the stip, I decided to drill holes through the boot cover and metal strip, and use the harness bolts to attach the boot cover. Overall I am pretty satisfied with how it turned out.

Two tasks remain to finish this job. First, the boot cover needs snaps to match the bases on the body. And last, I will need to rivet or screw snaps along the leading edge in order to attach the tonneau cover. I will probably wait for warmer weather to do this. But for now the entire assembly could be easily unbolted.

Hood

With the hoodsticks in place it was time to errect the hood (or soft top, as we say on this side of the pond). The snaps are prefitted on the canvas top. The Assembly Guide suggests that the popper bases (or snap bases, as we say) come pre-installed on the body. Not true on this body, but one of the boxes had a tiny bag marked "Weather" that contained the hardware.

Most are riveted to the body with washers behind the body panels. The forward two on either side are attached with self taping screws, the last requiring that a hole is drilled through the body. Before drilling the hole I put about five layers of masking tape on the body then gently pressed the snap on the fabric into the tape to create an impression. This made drilling the correct location easier and protected the body. I put a dab of silicone sealant beneath these snap bases to discourage corrosion.

Cycle Wings - Rhino Linings

Standard fenders on a Seven are made of fibreglass. Mine came unpainted from the factory because I intend to have them painted locally. Before paint the fenders made a pit stop at our Rhino Linings store for a coat of black Hardline. They are shown here in the back of my truck.

This undercoating will reduce road noise and make them more resistant to stone chips. I am completely impressed. They really look and feel more substantial than the bare gelcoat. I think they'll be more resistant to cones at the Autocross too!

Hood Straps & Sticks

The roof on a Seven is known as the Hood. The metal sticks that support it are made of aluminum tubing, and the straps are black lylon webbing. The entire assembly is much lighter than expected, yet consistent with this light-weight sports car. Installing the hood sticks is a prerequisite to fixing the boot cover, since the sticks lay flat under the cover. The straps must be screwed to the upper chassis member at the rear of the car. Although the Assembly Guide references pre-drilled holes, I was unable to find any. Nonetheless, drilling holes is simple enough. Drilling holes in the chassis is a bit nerve-wracking, worring constantly about puncturing the body.

Interior Trim

The interior panels are black vinyl-covered aluminum. Most of the panels are installed at the factory, however final finishing around the edges is required. Pop rivets are used to secure plastic bead trim between the panels and the chassis. The shiny metal piece to the left is an optional sill protector. Nearly 100 rivets must be used, which began to wear out my weak hands after a while.

Filling Differential

Access to the differential is accomplished by removing the metal floor in the boot and passing down a funnel with hose. The Assembly Guide calls for approximately 1.1 litres of EP90 gear oil. The actual capacity is slightly larger, but the unit arrives with a trace amount of fluid. A pan was placed below to catch drops since the differential must be filled to the top of the drain hole.

Rollover Bar

This evening the light bulb in the garage over the car burned out. That did not hinder installation of the standard Rollover Bar, above. Two bolts attach at the front, and two in the rear. The Boot is the trunk space on a Seven. It is suggested to fit the rollover bar before the boot cover in order to ensure the cover fits neatly around the legs. Since the car cannot yet be easily moved, tomorrow we'll find a long pole to change the light bulb.

Working Under the Dash

There are stories on the Internet about Seven owners who work upside down under the dashboard. Frankly, I was sceptical about my own ability to do this--until now. Wires under the dash connect the heating element in the windshield to the car's wiring harness. It is easier to secure these wires with cable ties if you are physically under the dash. Upside down.


Here's how to do it. With the seats removed, stand up in the car on either side facing rearward. Begin to squat down, holding on with your hands to the doorsill and the center tunnel. Raise each leg one at a time and rest them on the boot. Use your hands and feet to slowly lower yourself onto your back. It may be necessary to tuck your head to the side to clear the dash. To get out, do all this is reverse.

Engine Mounts

The rubber engine mounts are attached at either side of the engine bay, on the chassis. On the right side the main ground wire is fixed to the forward bolt. A Dremmel grinder was used to remove paint from the chassis and mount. Copper grease was applied to further ensure a good connection. Finally, the ground wire is taped to the chassis to get it out of the way.


The last photo shows the left mount. Notice that the two similar holes in the chassis to the rear of the mount are not used. All of the fittings will be tightened after the engine is installed.

Gearbox Speed Sensor

Installing the speedometer sensor in a Ford 5-speed T9 gearbox is not as difficult as it may seem at first. Above, the plastic gear spindel and wheel are coated with grease and inserted from the left hand side, carefully engaging in the metal gear teeth inside the hole. Next, a light coating of silicone is spread around the edge of the cap, and the cap is tapped into place with a rubber mallet. I used a socket in the center of the cap as a tap.

The spindel emerges from the opening on the right. The Assembly Guide said to install an oil seal on the right hand side, however the seal was already present in the hole.

Below, the brass top hat is placed in the opening with the threads outward. A circlip holds the brass fitting into place. I do not have much experience with circlips, so I used a punch with a sharp end to hold one tip of the circlip, an a small pair of vise grips to coax the other tip of the circlip into place. The speed sensor is still in the bag because it gets screwed onto the brass threads after the transmission is in the car.

Windscreen

Word is that on UK cars the kit is delivered with windscreen installed. In this case the windscreen was neatly packaged separately. No mention of this in the Assembly Guide, and no surprise then that the mounting bolts were not easy to find. Fortunately a Fastenal hardware store is a few blocks away. The salesperson suggested using decorative acorn nuts where the stantions attach to the body, said "I'll make it look custom!" I went with his suggestion, pictured here.

Others have complained about the fit between the windscreen and the scuttle. This one matched up pretty well with a slight gap on either end that is protected by the weather stripping. The windscreen may need to be reinstalled later on in order to install the tonneau cover.

Radiator

The electric fan bolts onto the radiator. At the top a temperature sensor is screwed into a threaded opening. Connections for the sensor and fan will mate with the car's wiring harness on the chassis. Black spraypaint was applied to make the radiator less obvious when viewed from the front through the nose cone.

How Long Will it Take?

Friends often ask how long it will take to assemble this car. Experts estimate 80-150 hours is average, depending on mechanical experience. Prior to this undertaking my only shop experience, besides changing oil and filters, was bolting on aftermarket exhausts and intakes. I work full time and have two kids, so this kit will not consume the majority of my time. After working on it now for about three weeks, I am convinced the project will take about three calendar months to complete. In month one, the suspension and steering can be assembled, plus some of the engine bay preparation. Month two will be dedicated to installing the engine, including connecting all the wiring and hoses. The final month will be used to install the interior and weather gear, such as the hood and boot cover. This does not account for the vehicle registration process which may be a few days to a few weeks depending on your state.

Crowfoot Wrench Extensions

For the novice mechanic, assembling a car means getting a crash course in tools. The area between the front wishbone and the body is too small to fit a torque wrench. It may be tempting to skip the torque wrench and estimate the tightness with a box wrench. A better solution is to use a crowfoot extension on your torque wrench, like the one shown above. (I always wondered what those things were.) Keep in mind that an adjustment in the torque setting is required when using any extension.

Missing Steering Bolts

The photo below shows an orange tag near the brake cylinder where the steering column emerges from the dash, or scuttle. For some reason, a pair of nuts and bolts are missing that hold the steering bracket to the scuttle. These fasteners are visible in photos of other Sevens, and are mentioned in the Assembly Guide. Most likely I will source them from a local hardware store. I am in the habit now of marking missing parts with orange tags as a reminder that some addition work needs to be done.

Steering Grommets

The steering column passes down from the dash through the driver's footbox twice, once through the top and once at the front of the footbox, shown above. Rubber grommets are needed to block water and air from entering the interior of the car around the column for both of these holes. At the top, known as the cheese wedge for its shape, the hole is 35 mm. Grommets this size were supplied with the car, and one was easily inserted in the top hole. However, the hole lower down at the front of the footbox (pictured) is curiously larger, and a grommet would not stay there.

It turns out that the reason for the larger hole is related to the engine. To fit a Zetec engine in the US, it is necessary to raise the steering column ever so slightly to clear parts of the engine. Earlier I posted about the spacer that raises the steering rack for this reason. As a result, the steering column does not pass through the exact center of the hole in the front.

Rather than try to align this perfectly at the factory, Caterham makes the forward hole extra large and then supplies a small aluminum plate that can be riveted over the center point. The metal plate has a 35 mm hole, and the grommet fits. Look for the plate and grommet in the bag marked "Weather". None of this is mentioned in the Assembly Guide.

I have attached an orange tag to this part as a reminder that it needs to be installed. Whenever I find a missing or incomplete piece, I attach an orange tag as a reminder that some attention is needed.

Rear Brake Calipers

The rear brake disks slide over the axles and will eventualy be held in place when the large axle nut is tightened. The brake calipers slide down over the disks are are bolted to the DiDio ears. At this point, the braking system is complete, including the mechanical emergency brake. Theoretically the brake lines could be filled with brake fluid now and bled. However, I am inclined to wait to make sure nothing will need to be disassembled. Suzi Collie offers a safety inspection of the brakes.

Rear Brake Hose

The solid brake line on the DiDion tube connects to the solid brake line on the car above via a braided metal hose. This allows movement in the rear suspension. The photo on the left shows the connection at the T-joint on the DiDion tube and the hose running upward. The photo below shows the upper connection in greater detail where the brake hose passes through a strip of aluminum that supports the boot floor.

Front Brake Hose

A pair of braided metal hoses connect the brake calipers to the solid copper brake lines inside the body. The end has a bango bolt for the standard calipers. If you ordered the wide-track suspension option, then make sure you received the longer hoses. Photos show connections for the front right brake.

Heater Connection

If your car is a US kit after 2005 you may need this adapter to connect the heater to the car's wiring loom. Previously I posted about not being able to find the connection point under the dash for the heater. Another Seven owner tipped me off that there is an adaptor required. His car is two years old and had the same issue. Apparently cars after 2005 have a different heater, but the US wiring loom has not been updated. Thanks "breezy7"!

New Years Resolutions

I am not a fan of New Years resolutions, yet the solitude of working in the garage provides an excellent opportunity to introspect and plan. Experts recommend keeping a Life List, an itenerary of things you want to do before you die, as a way of adding meaning to life. Having wrestled with this concept for months, I never feel quite up to the task of dreaming up ten things. The exercise seems arbitrary and, in a way, limiting. Instead, I discovered it is easier to record the past accomplishments that I am most proud of, and add to that list only the next two or three goals for the future.

10. Visit China.
9. Build a Seven.
8. Have a Family.
7. Backpack the Grand Canyon, Rim to Rim.
6. Scuba Dive the Florida Keys at Night.
5. Live on a Sailboat.
4. Fly to London for a Show.
3. Bungee Jump, Skydive, and Parasail All in One Day.
2. Learn to Fly a Plane.
1. Finish College.

What's on your Life List?

A-Frame & Rear Anti-Roll Bar

The A-frame keeps the DiDion tube from moving laterally. Installing it was almost as tedious as installing the differential (although thankfully it is not a heavy piece). Spacer washers are used at either end to ensure that the A-frame is properly centered within the chassis. The long bar with the orange bushes is the rear anti-roll bar. Darn near killed myself trying to get the bush to slide over part of the bar that turns ninety degrees. Later learned that bathing the bushes in hot water first would have made them more pliable.

Gojo

Every newbie mechanic should pick up a bottle of Gojo. Gojo helps to remove grease from your hands (and forehead) at the end of the day. It is not soap, but rather some magical formula that makes grease go away before you wash. Rub it in your hands for a couple of minutes and the blackness fades away. It smells good too.

Rear Suspension

The rear suspension went together this morning. After protecting the chassis with cardboard, the DiDion Tube was placed into the chassis behind the differential. The driveshafts were then inserted into the differential. Each spring damper attaches at the top to the chassis and bottom to the DiDion Tube. The aluminum DiDion "ears" bolt to the tube after the driveshaft is passed through the ear. Finally, after applying a fine coating of grease to the driveshaft end, the hub is passed over the driveshaft and bolted to the ear. During the entire operation, care was given to not damage the copper brake lines.